DIY: Peacoat Jacket

Following up on my peacoat tutorial, here are a few ways to add closures and pockets!

Buttons

1. Sew one column of buttons to the outer flap, farther from the flap edge

2. Cut a column of button holes to the outer flap, closer to the flap edge

3. Sew one column of buttons to the inner flap, farther from its flap edge so they align with the button holes

The ideal type of button is a shank button because it is less likely to distort the shape of the wool. This is the type that does not have any holes going through the button, but instead a loop of metal or plastic protruding from the back.
For the button holes, cut a horizontal slit that is just barely wide enough for the button to go through smoothly. Finish off the raw edges of the slit with the buttonhole feature on your sewing machine, with a dense zigzag stitch, or by hand if the first two options aren't available.

Zipper

1. Pin the zipper to the inner and outer flap at the desired height and visibility

2. Unzip and sew one-half of the zipper to the inside edge of the outer flap

3. Sew the other half of the zipper to the outside of the inner flap

The ideal type of zipper is a long zipper with metal teeth that has the ability to split completely. If the zipper compliments the look of the jacket, you can choose to sew it so it is more exposed when zipped up. The zipper half that is attached to the outer flap is the one that determines the zipper's visibility. If it is sewn far enough away from the outer flap edge, the entire zipper will be hidden.

Snaps, Magnets, Velcro - a little less conventional, but you're the boss!

1. Add the closure to the outer flap close to the flap edge

2. Add the other half of the closure to the inner flap, aligned with the outer flap closures

These closures will be more effective if your coat is not too snug in fit, as they don't have the same holding power as buttons or zippers. For magnets, cut a slit into the back of the outer flap to slide the magnets in so that there's no evidence on the outside. Then sew the other half of the magnet to the inside of the inner flap to keep it out of sight. 

Pockets

For invisible pockets that blend in with the side seams, my satin dress tutorial shows how to include them (start at 4:53).

For visible pockets, the easiest is to sew two rectangles to the outside of the coat. If you'd like pockets where only the opening is visible, my DIY wool cape shows how to do it (start at 4:22).

Thanks for watching and following along!